“Balam” means “guardian”, “protector”, “supernatural being”, and also means “jaguar”.

“K’u” means “temple”.

Balamku was occupied from about 300 BCE, in the Late Preclassic, through to the Terminal Classic period, between 800 and 1000 CE. The earliest architecture on the site is found in the Central and South Groups, dating to the Late Preclassic to Early Classic transition.

The ruins were discovered in 1990 by Mexican archaeologist Florentino García Cruz in the company of INAH custodians when they investigated a report of archaeological looting.

They found a looters’ trench that had partly uncovered a painted stucco frieze that had originally formed part of the upper facade of an Early Classic building.

After initial rescue work, the site was formally excavated from 1994 to 1995 by a team headed by Mexican archaeologist Ramón Carrasco including two French archaeologists, Claude Baudez and Jean Pierre Courau.

Carrasco and his Mexican team concentrated on the Central Group while the French archaeologists investigated the South Group.

The ruins of Balamku cover an area of approximately 25 hectares. The site features a very low density of peripheral architecture around the principal groups; 100 meters away there are practically no further buildings.

Architectural Groups

The ruins are distributed in four major architectural groups. The Central and North Groups are situated close to water sources.

Central Group

The Central Group comprises three plazas, labeled Plaza A, B, and C.

Plaza A is situated at the southern extreme of the Central Group. It supports a Mesoamerican ballcourt and a number of mounds that have not yet been investigated archaeologically.

Plaza B is located in the northwestern sector of the Central Group. It is enclosed by Structure I on the north side, Structure IV on the south side, and structures V and VI on the east and west sides respectively.

Test pits have uncovered architectural remains dating back to the Late Preclassic, the earliest phase of operation at the site.

Plaza C is separated from Plaza B by Structure V. It is bordered by Structure II on its north side and Structure III on its west side. It is enclosed on its south side by a number of unexcavated structures.

South Group

The South Group comprises four plazas, labeled A through D.

Plaza A is enclosed by Structure D5-5 on its north side. Structure D5-10 limits its western side and Structure D5-11 encloses it on the south side.

Plaza B has Structure D5-5 on its eastern side. Structure D5-10 is on the south side of the plaza and Structure D5-7 encloses the northern side of the plaza.

Plaza C is bordered by Structure D5-4 and Structure D5-6 on its east and south sides respectively.

Plaza D is enclosed by Structure D5-1 on its eastern side. Structure D5-2 limits the south side of the plaza and Structure D5-3 closes the plaza on the west side.

Southwest Group

The Southwest Group consists of two structures that together form an E-Group astronomical complex.

North Group

The North Group has not been excavated by archaeologists although it has been mapped. It consists of six plazas bordered by structures, some of which are over 15 meters tall.

Structures

Structure I is located in the Central Group.

Excavations of an earlier substructure (Sub I-A) have uncovered a stucco frieze stylistically dated to between the 4th century BCE and the middle of the 6th century CE, although radiocarbon dating of the lintel of the structure returned a date of 631 AD ± 30 years.

The frieze was first uncovered by looters and was fully excavated under the direction of INAH.

The complete frieze measured 16.8 meters long when excavated and stood 1.75 meters high. The frieze combines the imagery of rulers with that of a sacred mountain. The frieze is preserved almost intact; it is protected by roofing and is accessible to visitors.

Structure D5-5 is located in the South Group between plazas B and C. Two burials were excavated in the structure, one of them was an elite status individual.

Structure D5-10, in the South Group, is built over two earlier structures dating to the Late Preclassic.

Structure D5-11 is located in the South Group, on the south side of Plaza A. It dates as far back as the Late Preclassic and is one of the earliest known buildings at Balamku.

There is a bus from Escarcega (1,5 hours) or from Chetumal (around 3 hours).

Also is possible to reserve a tour with a transfer from Campeche or Chetumal local agencies.

Balamkú is located in the state of Campeche 5 km from the highway entrance into the Calakmul Ruins on Hwy 186.

The ruin entrance is 3 km from the highway. You can access Hwy 186 from either the City of Campeche (Hwy 180 to Hwy 186) or from the Riviera Maya and Costa Maya (Hwy 307 to Hwy 186)

This is an overnight visit if you are traveling from the Riviera Maya. Tulum is 390km from the site, Playa del Carmen is 450 km from Balamkú. In the Costa Maya, Bacalar is 175 km, and Mahahual is 270 km from the Balamkú site.

Entrance

Monday through Sunday from 8:00 to 17:00.
Entry price: 45 pesos for a person.

Recommendations

Wear light clothing. Hormiguero is in the jungle, so can be hot and muggy.
In the months of June, July, and August, it is a good idea to use insect repellent and bring rain gear.

Please plan to arrive at the site one hour before closing in order to have enough time for your visit.
Suggested visiting time: 2 hours

It is possible to combine Balamku with a visit to Xpuhil, Rio Bec, Hormiguero, Becan, and Balamku as all 5 sites can be easily visited in one day.

Services

Parking, sale of publications, service unit, toilets, palapas, grills, and camping área.

The name Becan was bestowed on the site by archaeologists who rediscovered the site, meaning “ravine or canyon formed by water” in Yukatek Maya, after the site’s most prominent and unusual feature, its surrounding ditch.

The site was first documented in the archaeological literature in 1934 by archaeologists Karl Ruppert and John Denison on an expedition to the region sponsored by the Carnegie Institution of Washington, who named it “Becan” after the conspicuous ditch surrounding the center of the city.

The ancient name of the site is not known.

Archaeological evidence shows that Becan was occupied in the middle Preclassic Maya period, about 550 BCE, and grew to a major population and ceremonial center a few hundred years later in the late Preclassic.

The population and scale of construction declined in the early classic (c 250 CE), although it was still a significant site, and trade goods from Teotihuacan have been found. A ditch and ramparts were constructed around the site at this time.

There is a ditch that runs the circumference of the city which covers approximately 25 hectares (61.7 acres).

Around 500 the population again increased dramatically and many large new buildings were constructed, mostly in the Rio Bec style of Maya architecture. Construction of major buildings and elite monuments stopped about 830, although ceramic evidence shows that the site continued to be occupied for some time thereafter, although the population went into decline and Becan was probably abandoned by about 1200.

From 1969 to 1971 archaeological excavations were made at Becan sponsored by Tulane University and the National Geographic Society.

In 1984, while conducting research at the site, one of Mexico’s “most important archeologists”, Román Piña Chán, fell from the pyramid at Becán, becoming paralyzed. On 13 July 2001, at a homage paid to Piña by the National Museum of Anthropology, it was announced that Lucía Campaña, had discovered a pre-Hispanic tomb in the ninth building at the site, the previous day.

From Escarcega

Buses from Escarcega to Xpuhil $8-$25 (2:05 hours) run 4 times a day.
From Xpuhil to Becan in taxi $1-$2 (0:07 min).

From Escarcega to Becan in taxi $25-$30 (2:05 hours).

From Chetumal

Buses from Chetumal to Xpuhil $7-$24 (1:45 hours) run 4 times a day.
From Xpuhil to Becan in taxi $1-$2 (0:07 min).

From Escarcega to Becan in taxi $22-$27 (1:55 hours).

Guided tour

The easiest way to visit Hormiguero and surroundings is reserve a one day guided tour from Chetumal or Escarcega.
There is a lot of local tour agency in Chetumal.

Entrance

Monday through Sunday from 8:00 to 17:00.
Entry price: 60 pesos for a person.

Recommendations

Wear light clothing. Hormiguero is in the jungle, so can be hot and muggy.
In the months of June, July and August, it is a good idea to use insect repellent and bring rain gear.

Please plan to arrive at the site one hour before closing in order to have enough time for your visit.

It is possible to combine Becan with a visit to Xpuhil, Rio Bec, Homiguero and Balamku as all 5 sites can be easily visited in one day.

Services

Parking, sale of publications, service unit, toilets.

You can dial 078 from any phone, where you can find free information about tourist attractions, airports, travel agencies, car rental companies, embassies and consulates, fairs and exhibitions, hotels, hospitals, financial services, migratory and other issues.

Or dial the toll-free (in Mexico) number 01-800-006-8839.

You can also request information to the email correspondencia@sectur.gob.mx

MORE EMERGENCY NUMBERS:

General Information: 040 (not free)

National Emergency Service: 911

Radio Patrols: 066
Police (Emergency): 060
Civil Protection: +52(55)5683-2222
Anonymous Complaint: 089

Setravi (Transport Mobility): +52(55)5209-9913
Road Emergency: 074

Cruz Roja: 065 o +52(55)5557-5757
Firefighters: 068 o +52(55)5768-3700

Calakmul is an unrivaled tropical reserve that means “two adjacent mounds” in Mayan. Calakmul administered a large domain marked by the extensive distribution of their emblem glyph of the snake head sign, to be read “Kaan”.

Calakmul is a modern name, according to scientists, “ca” means “two”, “lak” means “adjacent”, and “mul” signifies any artificial mound or pyramid, so Calakmul is the “City of the Two Adjacent Pyramids”.

In ancient times the city core was known as Ox Te’ Tuun, meaning “Three Stones”.

Another name associated with the site, and perhaps a larger area around it, is Chiik Naab’.

The lords of Calakmul identified themselves as “K’uhul Kaanal Ajaw” (“Divine Lords of the Snake”), but the connection of the title to the actual site is ambiguous.

Emblem Glyph

At Calakmul’s peak in the 7th century, the polity was known as Kan. Interesting to know is that the title Kan was used at another place before Calakmul became a regional powerhouse.

The Preclassic political state in the Mirador Basin also used the title Kan. There is the idea that, after the collapse of the Mirador state, its refugees migrated north towards Calakmul, where they founded a new Kan polity.

However, epigraphical studies of the monuments at Calakmul show that prior to the 7th century AD the emblem glyph of Calakmul had nothing to do with a snake, but with a bat.

It seems that a different polity ruled there.

The Kan emblem glyph, before being associated with Calakmul, is found (once) at Dzibanché, a site more towards the east. Perhaps during the late 6th/early 7th century, the polity at Dzibanché moved to Calakmul in order to establish a more strategically placed capital.

After Calakmul’s power dwindled in the 8th century, after the rule of Yuknoom Took K’awiil, it appears that the bat emblem glyph made its resurgence. Still, many uncertainties remain and new epigraphical studies have to be done to fill the gaps.

Calakmul is located in Campeche state in southeastern Mexico.

The site is located about 35 km north of the border with Guatemala and 38 km north of the ruins of El Mirador. The ruins of El Tintal are 68 km to the southwest of Calakmul and were linked to both El Mirador and Calakmul itself by a causeway.

Calakmul was about 20 km south of the contemporary city of Oxpemul and approximately 25 km southwest of La Muñeca.

The city is located on a rise about 35 m above a large seasonal swamp lying to the west, known as the El Laberinto Bajo (a Spanish word used in the region to denote a low-lying area of seasonal marshland).

This swamp measures approximately 34 by 8 km and was an important source of water during the rainy season.

The bajo was linked to a sophisticated water-control system including both natural and artificial features such as gullies and canals that encircled a 22 sq km area around the site core, an area considered as Inner Calakmul.

The location of Calakmul at the edge of a bajo provided two additional advantages: the fertile soils along the edge of the swamp and access to abundant flint nodules.

The city is situated on a promontory formed by a natural 35 m high limestone dome rising above the surrounding lowlands. This dome was artificially leveled by the Maya.

During the Preclassic and Classic periods settlement was concentrated along the edge of the El Laberinto bajo, during the Classic period structures were also built on high ground and small islands in the swamp where flint was worked.

At the beginning of the 21st century, the area around Calakmul remained covered by dense forest.

During the 1st millennium AD, the area received moderate and regular rainfall, although there is less surface water available than further south in Guatemala.

Calakumul is now located within the 7,300 sq km Calakmul Biosphere Reserve.

At its height in the Late Classic period, the city is estimated to have had a population of 50,000 inhabitants and to have covered an area of over 70 square kilometers.

The city was the capital of a large regional state with an area of about 13,000 square kilometers. During the Terminal Classic, the city’s population declined dramatically and the rural population plummeted to 10% of its former level.

The Late Classic population density of Calakmul has been calculated at 1000/km² (2564 per square mile) in the site core and 420/km² (1076 per square mile) in the periphery (an area of 122 square kilometers.

Calakmul was a truly urban city and not just an elite center surrounded by commoner residences. The site core of Calakmul was known in ancient times as Ox Te’ Tuun (“Three Stones”) which may have been because of the triadic pyramid Structure 2.

The Calakmul kingdom included 20 secondary centers, among which were large cities such as La Muñeca, Naachtun, Sasilha, Oxpemul, and Uxul.

The total population of these secondary centers has been estimated at 200,000.

The kingdom also included a large number of tertiary and quaternary sites, mostly fairly small and consisting of a number of groups arranged around courtyards, although there are also larger rural sites situated on ridges along the edges of the bajos that include temples, palaces, and stelae.

The total rural population of the kingdom is calculated at 1.5 million people.

The entire population of the Calakmul kingdom, including the city itself and the rural population in the 13,000 square kilometers area of the regional state, is calculated at 1.75 million people in the Late Classic period.

The Emblem Glyph of Calakmul has a greater distribution than the Emblem Glyph of any other Maya city. The Glyph is also found in more hieroglyphic texts than any other Emblem Glyph, including that of Tikal.

Calakmul administered a large domain marked by the extensive distribution of their emblem glyph of the snake head sign, to be read “Kaan”.

Calakmul was the seat of what has been dubbed the Snake Kingdom. At times the city had governance over places as far away as 150 kilometers.

Calakmul has a long occupational history and excavations have revealed evidence from the Middle Preclassic right through to the Postclassic. The causeway network that linked Calakmul with the cities of El Mirador, Nakbe, and El Tintal suggests strong political links between the four cities that may have begun in the Preclassic, when both Calakmul and El Mirador were important cities, and continued into the Classic period when Calakmul itself was the most powerful city in the region. Calakmul was one of the largest and most powerful ancient cities ever uncovered in the Maya lowlands.

Calakmul vs. Tikal

The history of the Maya Classic period is dominated by the rivalry between Tikal and Calakmul, likened to a struggle between two Maya “superpowers”. Earlier times tended to be dominated by a single larger city and by the Early Classic Tikal was moving into this position after the dominance of El Mirador in the Late Preclassic and Nakbe in the Middle Preclassic. However, Calakmul was a rival city with equivalent resources that challenged the supremacy of Tikal and engaged in a strategy of surrounding it with its own network of allies. From the second half of the 6th century AD through to the late 7th century Calakmul gained the upper hand although it failed to extinguish Tikal’s power completely and Tikal was able to turn the tables on its great rival in a decisive battle that took place in AD 695. Half a century later Tikal was able to gain major victories over Calakmul’s most important allies. Eventually, both cities succumbed to the spreading Classic Maya collapse.

The great rivalry between these two cities may have been based on more than competition for resources. Their dynastic histories reveal different origins and the intense competition between the two powers may have had an ideological grounding. Calakmul’s dynasty seems ultimately derived from the great Preclassic city of El Mirador while the dynasty of Tikal was profoundly affected by the intervention of the distant central Mexican metropolis of Teotihuacan. With few exceptions, Tikal’s monuments and those of its allies place great emphasis upon single male rulers while the monuments of Calakmul and its allies gave greater prominence to the female line and often the joint rule of king and queen.

Preclassic

Calakmul was already a large city in the Preclassic period. The early history of Calakmul is obscure, although a dynastic list has been pieced together that extends back into an ancestral past. This dynasty has been reconstructed in part from Late Classic ceramics from the region of great Preclassic cities of El Mirador and Nakbe. This may mean that Calakmul ultimately inherited its political authority from one of these cities, with its dynasty originating in the Late Preclassic in the Mirador Basin and relocating itself to Calakmul in the Classic period after the collapse of these cities.

Early Classic

Both Calakmul and Tikal were sizeable Preclassic cities that survived into the Classic Period. Early hieroglyphic texts from stelae found in Structure 2 record the probable enthronement of a king of Calakmul in AD 411 and also records a non-royal site ruler in 514. After this there is a gap in the hieroglyphic records that lasts over a century, although the Kaan dynasty experienced a major expansion of its power at this time. The lack of inscriptions recording the events of this period may be either due to the fact that the Kaan dynasty was located elsewhere during this time or perhaps that the monuments were later destroyed.

The earliest legible texts referring to the kings of the Kaan dynasty come from excavations of the large city of Dzibanche in Quintana Roo, far north of Calakmul. A hieroglyphic stairway depicts bound captives, their names and the dates they were captured together with the name of king Yuknoom Che’en I, although the exact context of the king’s name is unclear – the captives may have been his vassals captured by an enemy or they may have been rulers captured by the king of Calakmul. The dates are uncertain but two of them may fall within the 5th century AD. The nearby Quintana Roo site of El Resbalón has a jumbled hieroglyphic text, including a date in 529, that indicates that the city was within the control of the Kaan dynasty.

By the middle of the 6th century AD Calakmul was assembling a far-reaching political alliance, activity that brought the city into conflict with the great city of Tikal. The influence of Calakmul extended deep into the Petén; king Tuun K’ab’ Hix of Calakmul oversaw the enthronement of Aj Wosal to the rulership of Naranjo in 546. Another vassal of Tuun K’ab’ Hix was taken captive by Yaxchilan on the banks of the Usumacinta River in 537.

In 561, the king now known as Sky Witness installed a ruler at the site of Los Alacranes. Sky Witness played a major part in the political events of the Maya region. He became the overlord of the city of Caracol, to the south of Naranjo, which had previously been a vassal of Tikal. In 562, according to a damaged text at Caracol, Sky Witness defeated Tikal itself and sacrificed its king Wak Chan K’awiil, thus ending his branch of the royal dynasty at Tikal. This catastrophic defeat began a 130-year hiatus for Tikal, reflecting an extended period of dominance by Calakmul. This event is used as a marker to divide the Early Classic from the Late Classic. Sky Witness is also mentioned at Okop, a site much further north in Quintana Roo. The last reference to Sky Witness occurs at Caracol and is dated to AD 572. The text is damaged but probably records the death of this powerful king.

Late Classic: War with Palenque

Sky Witness was quickly succeeded by First Axewielder, who is mentioned in a text from Dzibanche celebrating the K’atun-ending of 573. First Axewielder ruled for about six years. In 579 Uneh Chan became king of Calakmul. Uneh Chan engaged in an aggressive campaign in the western Maya region and attacked Palenque on 23 April 599 with his ally Lakam Chak, lord of the small city of Santa Elena 70 kilometres (43 mi) east of Palenque, defeating Palenque’s queen Lady Yohl Ik’nal and sacking the city. The defeat is recorded on a series of hieroglyphic steps at Palenque itself and the event initiated a long-lasting grudge against Calakmul. Lady Yohl Ik’nal survived the battle and ruled for several more years, although she perhaps paid tribute to Calakmul.

Uneh Chan maintained his alliances with cities in the east and he is depicted on Caracol Stela 4 supervising an event involving king Yajaw Te’ K’inich of that city that occurred before 583. Calakmul again sacked Palenque on 7 April 611 under the personal direction of Uneh Chan. Palenque was now ruled by king Ajen Yohl Mat who had gained some sort of independence from Calakmul, provoking the new invasion. The immediate aftermath of this second victory over Palenque involved the deaths of the two most important nobles at the city, Ajen Yohl Mat himself and Janab Pakal, a high-ranking member of the royal family and possibly co-ruler. Janab Pakal died in March 612 and Ajen Yohl Mat a few months later. Their deaths so soon after the sacking of the city suggests that their demise was directly linked to Calakmul’s triumph. Palenque suffered a lengthy decline in its fortunes after this date before it was able to recover from its disastrous war with Calakmul. The wars against Palenque may have been undertaken by Uneh Chan in order to seize control of wealthy trade routes that passed through the western Maya region.

Late Classic: Rebellion at Naranjo

King Yuknoom Chan of Calakmul supervised an event at Caracol in 619. Caracol Stela 22 records the accession of Tajoom Uk’ab’ K’ak’ to the Calakmul throne in 622. Two stelae were erected at Calakmul in 623 but their texts are too badly damaged to reveal the names of the royal couple involved. Approximately at this time Naranjo, a vassal of Calakmul, broke away when its king Aj Wosal died relatively soon after the death of Uneh Chan of Calakmul. Naranjo was independent of Calakmul by at least AD 626, when it was twice defeated by Caracol and Yuknoom Chan may have been attempting to bring Naranjo back under Calakmul control. His attempts were brought to an end by his death in 630. In 631 Yuknoom Head, the new king of Calakmul, finally regained control of Naranjo. Texts relate that the king of Naranjo was already captive at Calakmul on the day that his city was overrun and his punishment on the very same day is described by the word k’uxaj meaning either “tortured” or “eaten”. Yuknoom Head conquered another city in March 636, although the exact site is unknown.

Late Classic: Apogee

The Kaan dynasty was not originally established at Calakmul but rather re-located there in the 7th Century from another city. Calakmul experienced its highest achievements during the reign of king Yuknoom Che’en II, sometimes called Yuknoom the Great by scholars. Yuknoom Che’en II was 36 years old when he came to the throne of Calakmul in AD 636. A significant increase in the production of stelae at the city began with his reign and 18 stelae were commissioned by the king. Yuknoom Che’en II was probably responsible for the construction of the palace complexes that form a major part of the site core.

Late Classic: Calakmul and Dos Pilas

In 629 Tikal had founded Dos Pilas in the Petexbatún region, some 110 kilometres (68 mi) to its southwest, as a military outpost in order to control trade along the course of the Pasión River. B’alaj Chan K’awiil was installed on the throne of the new outpost at the age of four, in 635, and for many years served as a loyal vassal fighting for his brother, the king of Tikal. In AD 648 Calakmul attacked Dos Pilas and gained an overwhelming victory that included the death of a Tikal lord. B’alaj Chan K’awiil was captured by Yuknoom Che’en II but, instead of being sacrificed, he was re-instated on his throne as a vassal of the Calakmul king, and went on to attack Tikal in 657, forcing Nuun Ujol Chaak, the then king of Tikal, to temporarily abandon the city. The first two rulers of Dos Pilas continued to use the Mutal emblem glyph of Tikal, and they probably felt that they had a legitimate claim to the throne of Tikal itself. For some reason, B’alaj Chan K’awiil was not installed as the new ruler of Tikal; instead he stayed at Dos Pilas. Tikal counterattacked against Dos Pilas in 672, driving B’alaj Chan K’awiil into an exile that lasted five years. Calakmul tried to encircle Tikal within an area dominated by its allies, such as El Peru, Dos Pilas and Caracol. In 677 Calakmul counterattacked against Dos Pilas, driving Tikal out and reinstalled B’alaj Chan K’awiil on his throne. In 679 Dos Pilas, probably aided by Calakmul, gained an important victory over Tikal, with a hieroglyphic description of the battle describing pools of blood and piles of heads.

Troubles continued in the east, with renewed conflict between Naranjo and Caracol. Naranjo completely defeated Caracol in 680 but Naranjo’s dynasty disappeared within two years and a daughter of B’alaj Chan K’awiil founded a new dynasty there in 682, indicating that Calakmul had probably intervened decisively to place a loyal vassal on the throne. The patronage of Yuknoom Che’en II as overlord is recorded at a range of important cities, including El Peru where he oversaw the installation of K’inich B’alam as king and strengthened the tie with the marriage of a Calakmul princess to that king. The power of Calakmul extended as far as the north shore of Lake Petén Itzá, where Motul de San José is recorded as its vassal in the 7th century, although it was traditionally aligned with Tikal. Yuknoom Che’en II commanded the loyalty of three generations of kings at Cancuen, 245 kilometres (152 mi) to the south, and supervised the enthronement of at least two of them, in 656 and 677. King Yuknoom Che’en II was involved, directly or indirectly, in the crowning of a king at Moral to the west in Tabasco and one of Yuknoom’s nobles supervised a ritual at Piedras Negras on the Guatemalan bank of the Usumacinta River. Yuknoom Che’en II died in his eighties, probably at the beginning of 686. When he died, Calakmul was the most powerful city in the central Maya lowlands.

Yuknoom Yich’aak K’ak’ succeeded Yuknoom Che’en II, his crowning on 3 April 686 was recorded on monuments at Dos Pilas and El Peru. He was born in 649 and was likely to have been the son of his predecessor. He already held high office before he was named king and may have been responsible for the major successes of the latter part of Yuknoom Che’en II’s reign. He retained the loyalty of K’inich B’alam of El Peru and B’alaj Chan K’awiil of Dos Pilas and gained that of K’ak’ Tiliw Chan Chaak in 693, when he was installed on the throne of Naranjo at the age of five. However, the texts on sculpted monuments do not reveal the full complexity of diplomatic activity, as revealed by a painted ceramic vase from Tikal, which depicts an ambassador of Calakmul’s king kneeling before the enthroned king of Tikal and delivering tribute. Just four years later, in August 695, the two states were once again at war. Yuknoom Yich’aak K’ak’ led his warriors against Jasaw Chan K’awiil I in a catastrophic battle that saw the defeat of Calakmul and the capture of the image of a Calakmul deity named Yajaw Maan. It is unknown what happened to Yuknoom Yich’aak K’ak’; a stucco sculpture from Tikal shows a captive and the king is mentioned in the accompanying caption but it is not certain if the captive and the king are the same person. This event marked the end of Calakmul’s apogee, with diplomatic activity dropping away and fewer cities recognising Calakmul’s king as overlord. No stelae remain standing in the site core recording Yuknoom Yich’aal K’ak, although there are some in the Northeast Group and 2 broken stelae were buried in Structure 2.

Late Classic: Later kings

The next ruler of Calakmul, Split Earth, is mentioned on a pair of carved bones in the tomb of Tikal king Jasaw Chan K’awiil I. He was ruling by November 695 but it is not known if he was a legitimate member of the Calakmul dynasty or whether he was a pretender placed on the throne by Tikal.

The next known king used a number of name variants, and is referred to by different name segments within and outside of Calakmul. A partial reading of his name is Yuknoom Took’ K’awiil. He erected seven stelae to celebrate a calendrical event in 702 and is named at Dos Pilas in that year, presumably demonstrating that Dos Pilas was still a vassal of Calakmul. El Peru also continued as a vassal and Yuknoom Took’ K’awiil installed a new king there at an unknown date. La Corona received a queen from Yuknoom Took’. Naranjo also remained loyal. Yuknoom Took’ K’awiil commissioned seven more stelae to mark the k’atun-ending of 731. A new defeat at the hands of Tikal is evidenced by a sculpted altar at that city, probably dating to sometime between 733 and 736, depicting a bound lord from Calakmul and possibly names Yuknoom Took’ K’awiil.

Late Classic: Calakmul and Quiriguá

After this the historical record of Calakmul becomes very vague, due both to the poor state of the heavily eroded monuments at the city itself and also its reduced political presence on the wider Maya stage. Wamaw K’awiil is named at Quiriguá on the southern periphery of Mesoamerica. Quiriguá traditionally had been a vassal of its southern neighbour Copán, and in 724 Uaxaclajuun Ub’aah K’awiil, king of Copán, installed K’ak’ Tiliw Chan Yopaat upon Quiriguá’s throne as his vassal. By 734 K’ak’ Tiliw Chan Yopaat had shown that he was no longer an obedient subordinate of Copán when he started to refer to himself as k’ul ahaw, holy lord, instead of using the lesser term ahaw, subordinate lord; at the same time he began to use his own Quiriguá emblem glyph. This local act of rebellion appears to have been part of the larger political struggle between Tikal and Calakmul. In 736, only two years later, K’ak’ Tiliw Chan Yopaat received a visit from Wamaw K’awiil of Calakmul, while Copán was one of Tikal’s oldest allies. The timing of this visit by the king of Calakmul is highly significant, falling between the accession of K’ak’ Tiliw Chan Yopaat to the throne of Quiriguá as a vassal of Copán and the outright rebellion that was to follow. This strongly suggests that Calakmul sponsored Quiriguá’s rebellion in order to weaken Tikal and to gain access to the rich trade route of the Motagua Valley. It is likely that contact with Calakmul had been initiated soon after K’ak’ Tiliw Chan Yopaat acceded to the throne. In 738 K’ak’ Tiliw Chan Yopaat captured the powerful but elderly king of Copán, Uaxaclajuun Ub’aah K’awiil. An inscription at Quiriguá, although difficult to interpret, suggests that the capture took place on 27 April 738, when Quiriguá seized and burned the wooden images of Copán’s patron deities. The captured lord was taken back to Quiriguá and on 3 May 738 he was decapitated in a public ritual.

In the Late Classic, alliance with Calakmul was frequently associated with the promise of military support. The fact that Copán, a much more powerful city than Quiriguá, failed to retaliate against its former vassal implies that it feared the military intervention of Calakmul. Calakmul itself was far enough away from Quiriguá that K’ak’ Tiliw Chan Yopaat was not afraid of falling directly under its power as a full vassal state, even though it is likely that Calakmul sent warriors to help in the defeat of Copán. The alliance instead seems to have been one of mutual advantage: Calakmul managed to weaken a powerful ally of Tikal while Quiriguá gained its independence.

Late Classic: Collapse

Five large stelae were raised in 741, although the name of the king responsible is illegible on all of them and he has been labelled as Ruler Y. Calakmul’s presence in the wider Maya area continued to wane, with two of the city’s major allies suffering defeats at the hands of Tikal. El Peru was defeated in 743 and Naranjo a year later and this resulted in the final collapse of Calakmul’s once powerful alliance network, while Tikal underwent a resurgence in its power.

In 751 Ruler Z erected a stela that was never finished, paired with another with the portrait of a queen. A hieroglyphic stairway mentions someone called B’olon K’awiil at about the same time. B’olon K’awiil was king by 771 when he raised two stelae and he was mentioned at Toniná in 789. Sites to the north of Calakmul showed a reduction in its influence at this time, with new architectural styles influenced by sites further north in the Yucatán Peninsula.

A monument was raised in 790 although the name of the ruler responsible is not preserved. Two more were raised in 800 and three in 810. No monument was erected to commemorate the important Bak’tun-ending of 830 and it is probable that political authority had alreadly collapsed at this time. Important cities such as Oxpemul, Nadzcaan and La Muñeca that were Calakmul’s vassals at one time now erected their own monuments, where before they had raised very few; some continued producing new monuments until as late as 889. This was a process that paralleled events at Tikal. However, there is strong evidence of an elite presence at the city continuing until AD 900, possibly even later.

In 849, Calakmul was mentioned at Seibal where a ruler named as Chan Pet attended the K’atun-ending ceremony; his name may also be recorded on a broken ceramic at Calakmul itself. However, it is unlikely that Calakmul still existed as a state in any meaningful way at this late date. A final flurry of activity took place at the end of the 9th century or the beginning of the 10th. A new stela was erected, although the date records only the day, not the full date. The recorded day may fall either in 899 or 909 with the latter date the most likely. A few monuments appear to be even later although their style is crude, representing the efforts of a remnant population to maintain the Classic Maya tradition. Even the inscriptions on these late monuments are meaningless imitations of writing.

Ceramics dating to the Terminal Classic period are uncommon outside of the site core, suggesting that the population of the city was concentrated in the city centre in the final phase of Calakmul’s occupation. The majority of the surviving population probably consisted of commoners who had occupied the elite architecture of the site core but the continued erection of stelae into the early 10th century and the presence of high status imported goods such as metal, obsidian, jade and shell, indicate a continued occupation by royalty until the final abandonment of the city. The Yucatec-speaking Kejache Maya who lived in the region at the time of Spanish contact in the early 16th century may have been the descendants of the inhabitants of Calakmul.

Calakmul was first reported by Cyrus Lundell in 1931. A year later he informed Sylvanus Morley of the site’s existence and the presence of more than 60 stelae. Morley visited the ruins himself on behalf of the Carnegie Institution of Washington in 1932. In the 1930s surveys mapped the site core and recorded 103 stelae. Investigations stopped in 1938 and archaeologists did not return to the site until 1982 when William J. Folan directed a project on behalf of the Universidad Autónoma de Campeche, working at Calakmul until 1994. Calakmul is now the subject of a large-scale project of the National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH) under the direction of Ramón Carrasco.

The site core of Calakmul covers an area of approximately 2 square kilometres (0.77 sq mi), an area that contains the remains of roughly 1000 structures. The periphery occupied by smaller residential structures beyond the site core covers an area of more than 20 square kilometres (7.7 sq mi) within which archaeologists have mapped approximately 6250 structures. Calakmul matches the great city of Tikal in size and estimated population, although the density of the city appears to have been greater than that city.

The stone used in construction at the site is a soft limestone. This has resulted in severe erosion of the site’s sculpture. The city of Calakmul was built in a strongly concentric fashion and can be divided into zones as one moves outwards from the centre of the site. The innermost zone covers an area of approximately 1.75 square kilometres (0.68 sq mi) It contains most of the monumental architecture and has 975 mapped structures, about 300 of which are built from vaulted stone masonry. About 92 structures were built on large pyramids laid out around plazas and courtyards. The city’s core was bordered on the north side by a 6-metre (20 ft) high wall that controlled access from the north and may also have had a defensive function.

Many commoners residences were built along the edge of El Laberinto swamp to the west of the site core, although some high-status residences and public buildings were interspersed among these. The area between the residences was used for horticulture.

Water control

The site is surrounded by an extensive network of canals and reservoirs. There are five major reservoirs, including the largest example in the Maya world, measuring 242 by 212 metres (794 by 696 ft). This reservoir is filled by a small seasonal river during the rainy season and continues to hold enough water for it to be used by archaeologists in modern times.

Thirteen reservoirs have been identified at Calakmul. The combined capacity of all the reservoirs is estimated at over 200,000,000 litres (44,000,000 imp gal). This quantity of water could have supported 50,000 to 100,000 people; there is no evidence that the reservoirs were used to irrigate crops.

Aguada 1 is the largest of the reservoirs and has a surface area of 5 hectares (540,000 sq ft).

Causeways

Eight sacbe (causeways) have been located around Calakmul. Two of these have been mapped, three have been identified visually on the ground and three more identified with remote sensing. They have been numbered as Sacbe 1 through to Sacbe 7. The causeway network not only linked Calakmul with local satellite sites but also with more distant allies and rivals, such as the great cities of El Mirador, El Tintal and Nakbe. Those causeways that cross swampy land are elevated above the surrounding wetland and they now tend to support denser vegetation than the surrounding forest.

Sacbe 1 is 450 metres (1,480 ft) long and is lined and filled with stone. It is located within the mapped urban area of the site core. Sacbe 1 was first mapped in the 1930s by the Carnegie Institution of Washington.

Sacbe 2 is 70 metres (230 ft) long. It has been mapped within the urban area of the site core. Sacbe 2 is built of packed earth and was discovered during the archaeological excavation of a nearby quarry. This causeway may have been built to transport stone from the quarry in order to build Structures 1 and 3.

Sacbe 3 extends 8 kilometres (5.0 mi) northeast from the site core and is visible from the summit of Structure 1. It was first discovered in 1982.

Sacbe 4 runs 24 kilometres (15 mi) southeast from the site core, it is also visible from the summit of Structure 1 and was discovered in 1982.

Sacbe 5 runs westwards from the main watering hole, across El Laberinto seasonal swamp and carries on for a total distance of 16 kilometres (9.9 mi) or more towards Sasilhá.

Sacbe 6 runs southwest across El Laberinto bajo and links Calakmul with El Mirador (38.25 kilometres (23.77 mi) to the southwest) and, beyond it, El Tintal (an additional 30 kilometres (19 mi).

Sacbe 7 is located south of Sacbe 6. It is at least 5.1 kilometres (3.2 mi) long and runs across El Laberinto swamp.

Sacbe 8 is on the west side of the swamp and does not appear to cross it to the site core.

There are 6,750 ancient structures identified at Calakmul; the largest of which is the great pyramid at the site.

Structure 2 is over 45 metres (148 ft) high, making it one of the tallest of the Maya pyramids.

Four tombs have been located within the pyramid. Like many temples or pyramids within Mesoamerica the pyramid at Calakmul increased in size by building upon the existing temple to reach its current size.

The size of the central monumental architecture is approximately 2 square kilometres (0.77 sq mi) and the whole of the site, mostly covered with dense residential structures, is about 20 square kilometres (7.7 sq mi).

Structure 1 (or Structure I) is a 50-metre-high (160 ft) pyramid to the east of the site core. A number of stelae were erected at its base by Yuknoom Took’ K’awiil in 731. Because it was built on a low hill, Structure 1 appears to be higher than Structure 2, although this is not the case.

Structure 2 (or Structure II) is a massive north-facing pyramid temple, one of the largest in the Maya world. Its base measures 120 metres (390 ft) square and it stands over 45 metres (148 ft) high. In common with many temple pyramids in the Mesoamerican cultural region, the pyramid at Calakmul increased in size by building upon the pre-existing temple in order to increase its bulk. The core of the building (Structure 2A) is a triadic pyramid dating to the Late Preclassic period, with this ancient building still forming the highest point of the structure. In the Early Classic a massive extension was added to the front of the pyramid, covering an earlier stucco-covered building on the north side. Three new shrines were built upon this extension (Structures 2B, 2C and 2D), each of these shrines had its own access stairway. Structure 2B was the central shrine, 2C was to the east and 2D to the west. The facade possessed six large masks set between these stairways, three arranged vertically on each side of the central stairway. Structure 2 is similar in date, size and design to the El Tigre pyramid at El Mirador, and associated ceramics are also similar. At a later time buildings were erected along the base of the facade, each of these contained stelae. In the 8th century AD, Structure 2B was entombed under a large pyramid and a stepped facade covered the giant masks. Later another facade was built over this 8th century stepped frontage but it may never have been finished. In the Late Classic a nine-room palace was built on top of the pyramid, supporting a roof comb that had painted stucco bas-relief decoration. The rooms were arranged in three groups of three, each room positioned behind the next. The entire Late Classic palace measured 19.4 by 12 metres (64 by 39 ft). The front two rows of rooms (Rooms 1 through to 6) were used for food preparation, metates and hearths were found in each of them. Room 7, the southwest room, was a sweatbath.

Structure 3 (or Structure III, also known as the Lundell Palace) is southeast of Structure 4, on the east side of the Central Plaza. It is a building with multiple rooms.

Structure 4 (or Structure IV) is a group of three temples on the east side of the Central Plaza. It is divided into three sections, labelled Structures 4a, 4b and 4c. The central Structure 4b is built upon a substructure dating to the Preclassic period. Together with Structure 6 on the opposite side of the plaza, these buildings form an E-Group that may have been used to determine the solstices and the equinoxes.

Structure 5 (or Structure V) is a large building located on the plaza to the north of Structure 2. It was surrounded by 10 stelae, many dated to the 7th century AD although the building itself was first erected in the Preclassic period.

Structure 6 (or Structure VI) is on the west side of the Central Plaza and, together with Structures 4a, 4b and 4c, forms an E-Group astronomical complex. In 1989 observations verified that on March 21, the vernal equinox, the sun rose behind Structure 4b as seen from Structure 6.

Structure 7 (or Structure VII) is a temple pyramid on the north side of the Central Plaza. It faces south and stands 24 metres (79 ft) high. Five plain stelae were erected on the south side of the pyramid. It underwent several construction phases from in the Late to Terminal Classic. The pyramid was topped by a three-room temple that possessed a tall stucco-covered roof comb. A patolli game board was carved into the floor of the outermost room of the temple.

Structure 8 (or Structure VIII) is a small building located on the north side of the Central Plaza, to the east of Structure 7. It is associated with Stela 1 and its altar.

Stelae, murals and ceramics

Calakmul is one of the most structure-rich sites within the Maya region. The site contains 117 stelae, the largest total in the region. Most are in paired sets representing rulers and their wives. However, because these carved stelae were produced in soft limestone, most of these stelae have been eroded beyond interpretation. Also many elaborate murals were discovered at Calakmul. These murals do not represent activities of the elite class. Rather, they depict elaborate market scenes of people preparing or consuming products such as atole, tamales, or tobacco as an ointment. Also items being sold were textiles and needles. These murals also have glyphs within them describing the actions occurring. The most prominent figure in these murals is identified as Lady Nine Stone; she appears in many scenes. This brings a world of the Maya marketplace to vibrant life for archaeologists. Another highly beneficial resource to Maya archaeological understanding at Calakmul is the ceramic remains. The composition of the ceramic materials identifies the region or more specifically the polity that produced them. Ceramics with the snake emblem glyph found at several sites also give more evidence to identify ties or control over that site by Calakmul.

Stela 1 is associated with an altar and located by Structure 8.

Stela 8 records the celebration of an event in AD 593 by Uneh Chan and was erected after his death.

Stela 9 is a thin slate monument dated to 662. Its text describes the birth of king Yuknoom Yich’aak K’ak’ and gives him his full royal title.

Stela 28 and Stela 29 were erected in 623 and are the earliest monuments to survive from Late Classic Calakmul. They depict a royal couple but the texts are too poorly preserved to reveal their names.

Stela 33 was erected by Yuknoom Che’en II in 657 and records an event in the reign of Uneh Chan, who may have been his father. The event was celebrated in 593.

Stela 38 stands at the base of Structure 2.

Stela 42 is also located at the base of Structure 2.

Stela 43 dates to AD 514. It was set in a vaulted chamber near the base of Structure 2. The text is damaged but carries an early spelling of the k’uhul chatan winik non-royal noble title used in Calakmul and the Mirador Basin.

Stela 50 is one of the last monuments erected during the final decline of the city. It bears a crude, clumsily executed portrait.

Stela 51 is the best preserved monument at Calakmul. It depicts Yuknoom Took’ K’awiil and dates to AD 731.

Stela 54 dates to 731 and depicts a wife of Yuknoom Took’ K’awiil.

Stela 57 is a tall stela erected in 771 by B’olon K’awiil. It is paired with Stela 58 and stands to the east of Structure 13.

Stela 58 is the second of a pair erected by B’olon K’awiil in 771, the other being Stela 57. It was erected to the east of Structure 13.

Stela 61 is a late monument bearing the name Aj Took’. It is a stunted stela with a badly eroded portrait and a shortened date form that is equivalent to a date either in 899 or 909, probably the latter.

Stela 62 was unfinished. It was carved to mark the K’atun-ending ceremony of 751 and bears the damaged name of Ruler Z.

Stela 76 and Stela 78 are a pair of monuments dated to AD 633. They are badly eroded but should date to the reign of king Yuknoom Head.

Stela 84 is one of the last monuments erected at Calakmul and bears an inscription that is an illiterate imitation of writing. It probably dates to the early 10th century AD.

Stela 88 may have been paired with Stela 62. The monument has the image of a queen but her name is unknown. B’olon K’awiil also appears to be mentioned on the stela. It dates to around 751 and stands on the stairway of Structure 13. Stela 91 is another very late monument probably dating to the early 10th century. Like Stela 84, it bears an inscription that is a meaningless imitation of hieroglyphic writing.

Stela 114 dates to AD 435, in the Early Classic. It was moved in antiquity to be reset into the base of Structure 2. The stela has a long hieroglyphic text that has resisted translation but probably commemorates a royal enthronement in 411.

Stela 115 and Stela 116 date to the reign of Yuknoom Yich’aak K’ak’. They were broken and buried in Structure 2 and may be associated with the royal burial in Tomb 4.

Royal burial

Tomb 4 was set into the floor of Structure 2B in the 8th century AD and is the richest burial known from Calakmul. The tomb contained a male skeleton wrapped in textiles and jaguar pelts that were partially preserved with resin. The tomb contained rich offerings that included jade ear ornaments handed down from the Early Classic, a jade mosaic mask, shell and bone beads, spiny oyster shells, eccentric obsidian blades, fine ceramics and the remains of wooden objects. One of the ceramics was a plate with a hieroglyphic text that specifically named king Yuknoom Yich’aak K’ak’ as its owner. The remains and the offering were placed in an arched wooden bier carved with elaborate decoration and hieroglyphs that was painted in a variety of colours. The bier has almost completely decayed but left an impression in the mud packed around it. Due to the plate and the possible association of Stelae 115 and 116 with the burial the tomb is believed to be that of the late 7th-century king Yuknoom Yich’aak K’ak’.

…

You can dial 078 from any phone, where you can find free information about tourist attractions, airports, travel agencies, car rental companies, embassies and consulates, fairs and exhibitions, hotels, hospitals, financial services, migratory and other issues.

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You can dial 078 from any phone, where you can find free information about tourist attractions, airports, travel agencies, car rental companies, embassies and consulates, fairs and exhibitions, hotels, hospitals, financial services, migratory and other issues.

Or dial the toll-free (in Mexico) number 01-800-006-8839.

You can also request information to the email correspondencia@sectur.gob.mx

MORE EMERGENCY NUMBERS:

General Information: 040 (not free)

SNational Emergency Service: 911

Radio Patrols: 066
Police (Emergency): 060
Civil Protection: +52(55)5683-2222
Anonymous Complaint: 089

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Campeche has a tropical savanna climate, with most rain falling in the wet season from June to October.

The name of Campeche is derived from the Maya name of a settlement called “Ah-Kin-Pech” where the city of Campeche is now. The native name means “place of snakes and ticks”.

When the Spanish first arrived to the area in 1517, they called it Lazaro, since “the day of our landing was St. Lazarus’ Sunday”.

The city was founded in 1540 by spanish conquistadores as San Francisco de Campeche atop the pre-existing Maya city of Ah Kim Pech.

The Pre-Columbian city was described as having 3,000 houses and various monuments, of which little trace remains.

Founded in 1540 by Francisco Montejo, Campeche was terrorized by pirates and marauders until the city started fortification in 1686.

San Francisco de Campeche was originally an indigenous village, Ah Kim Pech, where the spanish first landed in Mexico in 1517.

The city of Campeche was founded in 1540 and fortified against pirates during the 17th century. It still has the appearance of a fortress. Historical monuments and buildings, such as the Franciscan cathedral, old Maya ruins, and the old city walls and forts, attract many tourists.

The fortifications system of Campeche, an eminent example of the military architecture of the 17th and 18th centuries, is part of an overall defensive system set up by the Spanish to protect the ports on the Caribbean Sea from pirate attacks like the 1663 Sack of Campeche.

The state of preservation and quality of its architecture earned it the status of a World Heritage Site in 1999.

The city of Campeche is an example of urbanism in a baroque colonial city, with a reticular and regular plan, its urban trace, a model of colonial port cities, reflects the main role that it played as a commercial, religious and military connection point characterized by its high level of integrity and homogeneity.

More than one thousand buildings with a historic value have survived as witnesses of space and temporal superimposition of several significant historic periods of Mexico.

Due to the constant attacks of both English and Dutch buccaneers and pirates such as Francis Drake, John Hawkins, Laurens de Graaf, Cornelis Jol, Jacobo Jackson, Jean Lafitte, Francisco de Grammont, Bartolomé Portugués, William Parker, Francisco Nau, Edward Mansvelt, Henry Morgan, Lewis Scot, Roche Braziliano and Michel de Grammont for almost 160 years, in 1686 the government started to fortify the city.

The French engineer Louis Bouchard de Becour was commissioned to unify all the defensive works that surrounded the city with a wall. At its completion, the wall surrounding the city of Campeche was 2,560 meters in length, forming an irregular hexagon around the main part of the city, with eight defensive bastions on the corners. These bulwarks now serve different functions:

• Santiago: Used as the Botanical Garden ‘Xmuch´haltún’. Reconstructed.
• San Pedro: Former prison.
• San Francisco: Protects the Land Gate. Houses the library of the INAH.
• San Juan: Protects the Land Gate.
• Nuestra Señora de la Soledad: Also protects the Sea Gate. It is the largest one and holds the Museum of City History.
• San Carlos: Holds the City Museum. This fort was the first one built. Protects the Sea Gate.
• Santa Rosa.

It also contained four gates to allow access to the main quarters.

The main entrances are the Puerta de la tierra (“Land Gate”), built in 1732, and the Puerta del mar (“Sea Gate”).

The Land Gate is kept as a tourist attraction, having a light and sound show three nights each week and keeping original supplies and items from the 17th century.

The other gates were Guadalupe and San Román, connecting to the outside neighborhoods.

Additionally, two main forts protected the city from two nearby hills on each side, the forts of San José el Alto (built in 1762) and San Miguel.

These forts gave long-range artillery coverage and served also as look-outs. They were built before the walls of the city.

The fort of San Miguel is used as a museum and houses a collection of pre-Hispanic items.

The fort of San José houses a collection of boats and weapons of the period.

You can dial 078 from any phone, where you can find free information about tourist attractions, airports, travel agencies, car rental companies, embassies and consulates, fairs and exhibitions, hotels, hospitals, financial services, migratory and other issues.

Or dial the toll-free (in Mexico) number 01-800-006-8839.

You can also request information to the email correspondencia@sectur.gob.mx

MORE EMERGENCY NUMBERS:

General Information: 040 (not free)

National Emergency Service: 911

Radio Patrols: 066
Police (Emergency): 060
Civil Protection: +52(55)5683-2222
Anonymous Complaint: 089

Setravi (Transport Mobility): +52(55)5209-9913
Road Emergency: 074

Cruz Roja: 065 o +52(55)5557-5757
Firefighters: 068 o +52(55)5768-3700

You can dial 078 from any phone, where you can find free information about tourist attractions, airports, travel agencies, car rental companies, embassies and consulates, fairs and exhibitions, hotels, hospitals, financial services, migratory and other issues.

Or dial the toll-free (in Mexico) number 01-800-006-8839.

You can also request information to the email correspondencia@sectur.gob.mx

MORE EMERGENCY NUMBERS:

General Information: 040 (not free)

National Emergency Service: 911

Radio Patrols: 066
Police (Emergency): 060
Civil Protection: +52(55)5683-2222
Anonymous Complaint: 089

Setravi (Transport Mobility): +52(55)5209-9913
Road Emergency: 074

Cruz Roja: 065 o +52(55)5557-5757
Firefighters: 068 o +52(55)5768-3700

Chicanná was inhabited from 300 B.C. to 1100 A.D. but was thought to have reached its peak from 300 B.C. to 250 A.D. There is evidence that Chicanná may have been dependent on Becán for much of its existence since Becán was self-sufficient.

Chicanná is one of the most striking examples in the region of the mixing of architectural styles with its stunning detailed buildings. Its buildings have features of the Río Bec, Chenes (Mayan city), and even the Puuc style from the north.

It does not have large pyramids, but relatively small buildings with an ornateness and quality of decoration that suggests that it was a center for the region’s most elite.

The city of Chicanná is widely known for one of its well-preserved doorways with interesting details. The city reached its prime during the late classical period. The city of Chicanná is small. However, it is considered to be home to the elites and rulers of Becán.

After continuous research on the Chicanná site, knowledge grew which eventually led to the questioning of previous ideas associated with the style of sculptures in central Yucatán. Jack D. Eaton rediscovered Chicanná in 1966 during his exploration of the Yucatán.

Chicanná is a site that takes advantage of the natural elevation found in the region so structures seem higher and, for the Maya, closer to the god. This settlement was most used for important spiritual ceremonies and rituals for the Mayans.

Chicanná is located in the state of Campeche and is part of the ancient Maya Rio Bec region. The site was first studied by Jack Eaton in 1966 while exploring the Yucatan. The most famous building at the site, Structure II, was studied later during excavations in 1970.

The core of Chicanná consists of seven buildings. Structures I, II, and III make up the Main Plaza. Four outlying structures surround the Main Plaza. The most well-known structures at Chicanná are Structures I and II.

Structures I and II are both temples situated within the main plaza and have been interpreted to be aligned with solar movements for calendar-keeping purposes.

Based on radiocarbon dating of charcoal and other organic materials at the site, both Structures I and II are dated to the Late Classic period. Chicanná was built in multiple phases.

Structure XI, positioned adjacent to Structure X, was assembled first based on the ceramic sequence of materials found. Ceramic analysis also supports the radiocarbon data that suggests Structures I and II were built sometime later during the Late Maya Classic Period.

Structure I is a temple located in the main plaza characterized by four relief panels constructed in the Rio Bec style. The Rio Bec style is defined as a temple pyramid built in the central Maya lowlands.

Unlike other architectural styles in the Maya Lowlands, the Rio Bec architecture style is characterized by structures positioned at a greater distance from one another, resulting in a less dense site layout.

Other sites with the Rio Bec architectural style include Becan and Xpuhil, both located within 3 km from Chicanná. Due to their location and similar architectural style, Becan and Xpuhil are believed to have interacted with and were connected to Chicanná.

Structure I consists of six total rooms with five risers facing inward toward the plaza.

Also, part of the main plaza is Structure II. Structure II is a smaller building and the most well-known building at the site. Structure II contains a well-preserved relief sculpture of a serpent.

The name of the site, Chicanná, was derived and influenced by the serpent relief sculpture on this structure.

Structure II is composed of eight total rooms. Plaster walls within the interior of each room contain images depicting animals, monsters, clothes, and other structures on the plaster walls.

Ciudad del Carmen is located on Carmen Island covering an area of 11,513 hectares. The island is 40 km in length and is 6 to 8 km in its widest parts. The island is mainly 2 to 3 meters above sea level.

Ciudad del Carmen is characterized by its coastal location. The city is surrounded by beautiful beaches, mangroves, and lagoons. The landscape is a mix of coastal plains and wetlands, making it an ecologically diverse area.

Climate

Like most of the cities along the Yucatan’s gulf coast, Ciudad del Carmen exhibits a Tropical savanna climate.

Ciudad del Carmen has a pronounced dry season that lasts from January through May, with the wet season finishing out the year. September and October bring copious rainfall, with both months averaging well over 200 millimeters.

The best time to visit Ciudad del Carmen is during the dry season, which typically runs from November to April. This period offers pleasant weather with lower chances of rainfall and more opportunities to explore the city and its natural surroundings.

Remember that Ciudad del Carmen can get quite warm and humid, especially during the wet season, which spans from May to October. It’s advisable to stay hydrated and use appropriate sun protection when exploring the city and its attractions.

As of 2010, Ciudad del Carmen had a population of 169,466, up from the 2005 census of 154,197.

The vast majority of habitants in Ciudad del Carmen come from other places.

This extreme emigration and immigration pattern displays diversity in culture and lifestyle, the petroleum industry is in part responsible for this phenomenon that results in a rich and extraordinary culture mix.

The history of Ciudad del Carmen dates back to the pre-Hispanic era when it was inhabited by Mayan communities. Ciudad del Carmen was an important location that served to connect the Aztec and Mayan civilizations.

During the colonial period, the city became a hub for trade and fishing.

Between the 16th and 18th centuries when the city of Campeche was a trade hub between Spain and New Spain (Mexico), Ciudad del Carmen was inhabited by pirates and served as a port for repairing ships and planning attacks against the Spanish.

The city got its current name on July 16, 1717, in honor of the Virgin of Carmen, believed to be the protector of the island, when the Spanish forces evicted the pirates from the island and took control of the city after a long period of occupation.

Since then, every year at the end of July, Ciudad del Carmen has turned into the very center of the regional social, cultural, and religious festivities, on the fair that celebrates the island’s protector virgin.

This border area at the western edge of the Yucatán Peninsula was previously part of the state of Yucatán, then of Tabasco. Since 1863 it has been part of the state of Campeche.

In the mid-1970s Ciudad del Carmen was transformed from a fishing and shrimping city into a hub for oil. Ever since, Carmen has become a home for Mexican and foreign oil workers alike, including many Texans, and now houses many foreign companies.

However, its real transformation occurred in the 20th century with the discovery of oil in the region. The oil industry led to rapid development and urbanization, turning the city into a key player in Mexico’s energy sector.

Things to see and do in and around Ciudad del Carmen:

The Catedral del Carmen is a historic and architectural landmark in the city. The cathedral holds significant religious and cultural importance for both locals and visitors. The cathedral dates back to the 18th century.

El Zacatal Bridge connects the city to the mainland and offers panoramic views of the city’s coastline and surrounding waters.

As late as the early 1980s the city could long be reached only by ferry or small motorboats operating between Ciudad del Carmen and Zacatal. This changed with the construction of a causeway bridge to the mainland in the 1980s (eastbound) and another one in 1994 (westbound).

The construction of the first bridge was motivated by the sinking of one of the island’s pangas which resulted in the death of nearly everyone on board. The bridge Puente El Zacatal, constructed in 1994, is one of the longest in Latin America.

The city’s waterfront promenade, known as Malecón, is a lively area filled with restaurants, shops, and stunning views of the Gulf of Mexico. It’s an ideal place for a leisurely stroll.

Given the city’s history with the oil industry, visiting the Oil Museum provides insights into the region’s economic significance and its impact on Ciudad del Carmen’s development.

Playa Norte is one of the most popular beaches in the city, offering soft sand and clear waters. It’s a great spot for swimming, sunbathing, and enjoying water sports and beach activities.

Located near Ciudad del Carmen, Isla Aguada is a charming fishing village known for its peaceful beaches and vibrant local culture. It’s a great place to experience the coastal lifestyle.

Isla del Carmen Nature Reserve provides an opportunity to explore the local ecosystem, including mangroves and diverse bird species.

You can dial 078 from any phone, where you can find free information about tourist attractions, airports, travel agencies, car rental companies, embassies and consulates, fairs and exhibitions, hotels, hospitals, financial services, migratory and other issues.

Or dial the toll-free (in Mexico) number 01-800-006-8839.

You can also request information the email correspondencia@sectur.gob.mx

MORE EMERGENCY NUMBERS:

General Information: 040 (not free)

National Emergency Service: 911

Radio Patrols: 066
Police (Emergency): 060
Civil Protection: +52(55)5683-2222
Anonymous Complaint: 089

Setravi (Transport Mobility): +52(55)5209-9913
Road Emergency: 074

Cruz Roja: 065 o +52(55)5557-5757
Firefighters: 068 o +52(55)5768-3700

…

You can dial 078 from any phone, where you can find free information about tourist attractions, airports, travel agencies, car rental companies, embassies and consulates, fairs and exhibitions, hotels, hospitals, financial services, migratory and other issues.

Or dial the toll-free (in Mexico) number 01-800-006-8839.

You can also request information to the email correspondencia@sectur.gob.mx

MORE EMERGENCY NUMBERS:

General Information: 040 (not free)

National Emergency Service: 911

Radio Patrols: 066
Police (Emergency): 060
Civil Protection: +52(55)5683-2222
Anonymous Complaint: 089

Setravi (Transport Mobility): +52(55)5209-9913
Road Emergency: 074

Cruz Roja: 065 o +52(55)5557-5757
Firefighters: 068 o +52(55)5768-3700

The climate in Escárcega is classified as tropical monsoon. Expect hot and humid weather throughout the year, with temperatures often reaching above 32°C. The rainy season extends from June to October, bringing heavy downpours.

The dry season, from November to May, offers more pleasant conditions for outdoor activities.

The best time to visit Escárcega

The best time to visit Escárcega depends on your preferences.

If you enjoy lush, green landscapes and don’t mind occasional rain, plan your trip during the wet season.

For more comfortable weather and easier exploration of natural reserves, the dry season from November to May is ideal. Remember that this period can get quite hot, so be prepared with sunscreen and appropriate clothing.

The town of Escárcega is named after Francisco Escárcega, a native of Tlaxcala who fought in the Mexican Revolution and oversaw the construction of much of the rail network in the country’s southeast.

Pre-Columbian Era: Before the arrival of Spanish explorers, the area around Escárcega was inhabited by various indigenous peoples, including the Maya. Evidence of ancient Mayan settlements can still be found in the surrounding regions.

16th Century: With the Spanish colonization of Mexico in the 16th century, the area fell under Spanish control. It became part of the vast Yucatán Peninsula, which was explored and settled by Spanish conquistadors.

19th Century: During the 19th century, as Mexico gained its independence from Spanish rule and underwent various political changes, the region around Escárcega experienced shifts in governance and land ownership.

20th Century: Escárcega gradually developed as a town in the early 20th century, primarily due to its strategic location as a transportation hub, thanks to the construction of railways connecting it to other parts of Mexico.

Today, Escárcega continues to be a significant transportation hub in the Yucatán Peninsula, connecting travelers to various attractions in the region, including the nearby Calakmul Biosphere Reserve.

Buses from Campeche (2:10 hours) run a few times a day.
Taxi from Campeche (2:05 hours).

Buses from Chetumal  (3:50 hours) run 4 times a day.
Taxi from Chetumal (4 hours).

Buses from Bacalar (3:15 hours) run 5 times a day.

Buses from Villahermosa (4:05 hours) run 4 times a day.
There are a few additional buses that run just once a day.
Taxi from Villahermosa (4 hours).

Bus from Ciudad del Carmen runs via Campeche (6:10 hours).

The word “hormiguero” means “ant hill” in Spanish.

Hormiguero was a Mayan city that was at its peak in the Late Classic period (650–850).
Hormiguero was reported by Ruppert and Dennison during their Carnegie expedition in 1933.
Nevertheless, it wasn’t until 1979 that the first excavation of the zone was begun.

Hormiguero has several beautifully carved structures with particularly notable details, such as Structure IV which has a façade with a large mask in rounded towers with unfinished staircases and, like a door, a monstrous mouth with jaws open, symbolizing a portal between the outside world and the underworld.

Only a few of its 84 known structures have been excavated. The site is rich in architectural ornamentation on the buildings. The site is located on flat land with slight elevations towards the south and consists of three main groups of structures.

Structure II

Structure II is the most completely excavated building at the site and one of the most wildly theatrical of all Rio Bec buildings. It is the most important temple on the site due to its size and the elaborate carvings on the facade.

The facade consists of three main sections divided by two towers with rounded corners, typical of the Rio Bec region.

It is a rectangular platform, with two soaring, false-staircase towers on either side of a colossal Chenes-style monster portal. Inside there are several large chambers.

Unlike some structures, the towers are not false in that underneath a corridor exists that connects the platform of the central facade with the side ones. The central face is a large mask of Itzamna, the door a giant mouth.

The steps of the temple are carved like teeth, with the entryway, a giant tongue.

Central Group

Nearby is the Central Group, a complex of large temples, most of which are not excavated. Of those that are, Structure V is the most impressive. It is a towering pyramid with a well-preserved Chenes-style temple at the top.

Structure V

Structure V is located in the Central Group and is a building much smaller than Structure II, but the mask is much better preserved. The mask is an enormous representation of the monster of the Earth, in which the open jaws form the entrance to the building.

On each corner of the building are multiple rows of well-preserved Chaac masks, God of rain.

• From Escarcega: just 2:40 hours by bus, taxi, or by car.
• From Campeche: is around 5 hours by bus or 3:30-4:00 hours by car or taxi.

By car from Chetumal or Escarcega

• Take Highway 186 from Chetumal or Escarcega to Xpuhil.
• The ruins of Hormiguero are located 22 km south of the ruins of Xpuhil.

The easiest way to visit Hormiguero and its surroundings is to reserve a one-day guided tour from Chetumal.

At the site, there are some nice trails through the jungle for either hiking or mountain biking. Hiking in the jungle is fun. There’s a monkey cave along the trail.

Entrance

• Monday through Sunday from 8:00 to 17:00.
• Free of charge

Recommendations

• Wear light clothing. Hormiguero is in the jungle, so can be hot and muggy.
• In the months of June, July, and August, it is a good idea to use insect repellent and bring rain gear.
• Please plan to arrive at the site one hour before closing in order to have enough time for your visit.
• Suggested visiting time is 2 hours.

It is possible to combine Hormiguero with a visit to Xpuhil, Rio Bec, Becan, and Balamku as all 5 sites can be easily visited in one day.

Services

• Parking, sale of publications, service unit, toilets.
• There’s also a camping area there.

Palizada is quite isolated place and the only way to get there via Jonuta small town.

Buses from Villahermosa to Jonuta: $8-$24 (3:10 hours) runs just 3 times a day.
Taxi from Jonuta to Palizada: $4-$6 (0:30 min).

Taxi from Ciudad del Carmen to Palizada: $55-$65 (5:00 hours).

You can dial 078 from any phone, where you can find free information about tourist attractions, airports, travel agencies, car rental companies, embassies and consulates, fairs and exhibitions, hotels, hospitals, financial services, migratory and other issues.

Or dial the toll-free (in Mexico) number 01-800-006-8839.

You can also request information to the email correspondencia@sectur.gob.mx

MORE EMERGENCY NUMBERS:

General Information: 040 (not free)

SNational Emergency Service: 911

Radio Patrols: 066
Police (Emergency): 060
Civil Protection: +52(55)5683-2222
Anonymous Complaint: 089

Setravi (Transport Mobility): +52(55)5209-9913
Road Emergency: 074

Cruz Roja: 065 o +52(55)5557-5757
Firefighters: 068 o +52(55)5768-3700

The ancient Mayan city covers an extension of a few square km and is still being explored. It is surrounded by tall trees, tropical vegetation, and many species of birds.

Among the typical fauna of this region, you will find howler monkeys, spider monkeys, armadillos, wild hogs, deer, tapirs, and many more.

This Mayan archaeological site contains several independent groups of structures around central plazas, and the ball courts with their beadings and vertical walls are always visible nearby.

On some of the buildings you will discover wooden lintels over some doors, and others contain several chambers on different Rio Bec Mexico levels, which can be accessed by stairways.

The temple pyramids are large range-type structures with two nonfunctional huge massive towers, each one of them placed at each extreme of the structure.

You will be able to observe the typical Rio Bec style in Mayan architecture on the main building of group “B”.

In this group “B” you will easily recognize the quite large ball court too.

The Twin Towers narrow upwards, which increases the illusion of greater height. They ascend in such a steep vertical manner, that it would be impossible to climb up, especially as they also have nonfunctional stairs on their front, which appear to lead to the temples atop.

These temples are also nonfunctional. They are made of massive stone without any chambers, and the niches built into their front only give the illusion of doors.

On the façades and stairs of the pyramids, you may appreciate the ornaments in the form of animals, mostly serpents and lizards representing Mayan gods, and decorative Mayan masks, which are typical on all Mayan pyramids. The crests still conserve decorations of mosaics made of stone.

The reason for the nonfunctional elements of the Rio Bec structures is unknown.

The site is open every day from 8 am to 5 pm.

The Río Bec site was first mentioned by Austrian explorer Teoberto Maler at the end of the 19th century, though he never visited the site.

The French explorer Maurice de Perigny was the first European to visit and report on the Río Bec.

The site is now being excavated and restored by a group of French archaeologists from the CNRS headed by Dominique Michelet. They have located several architectural groups and their surveys and maps of several square kilometers give us a better understanding of the ancient settlement.

Excavation of the principal building at Río Bec A, a building with three towers and several rooms, is now underway.

Río Bec temple-pyramids are located in the central Maya lowlands.

The temple pyramids are characterized by a unique architectural style that began to appear during the seventh century A.D. and continued into the early twelfth century A.D.

The temple pyramids consist of a range-type building with typically two nonfunctional solid masonry towers on both ends of the range-type building.

The twin towers narrow with ascension in order to give an illusion of greater height. The twin towers appear to have stairs along their faces leading to the temple that rests atop them.

However, the steps are only a design motif that creates the illusion of functional stairs. Even if the steps were functional, the towers rise at steep vertical angles that would make ascending them difficult.

The temples, which are located on the platform at the top of the Río Bec towers are inoperative as well. The temples are solid masses with no interior rooms. Pseudo-doorways, which have been built into niches in the fronts of the temples, give the appearance of a functional door.

Despite their nonfunctional components, the Río Bec towers hold the typical decorations of a pyramid and its upper temple and at first glance are taken as functional pyramids.

The purpose of the Río Bec temple pyramids is unknown, but they do resemble the twin-tower complexes of Tikal.

Like the ancient Mayan city of Xpujil, this interesting Mayan site is located in Calacmul Reserve, only 10 km away from Xpujil town.

The best way to visit the Rio Bec ruins is to take a guided tour from one of the tour agencies in Chetumal.
You also could search for daily trips from Campeche, but it will take more time to get there and Chetumal is the closest town from where is better to visit this zone.

You can also rent a car (better in Chetumal), and take the Federal Highway 186 to towards Escarcega.
At kilometer 156 you will find Xpujil town, where ecotouristic guides will tell you how to reach the site on an unpaved road.

You can dial 078 from any phone, where you can find free information about tourist attractions, airports, travel agencies, car rental companies, embassies and consulates, fairs and exhibitions, hotels, hospitals, financial services, migratory and other issues.

Or dial the toll-free (in Mexico) number 01-800-006-8839.

You can also request information to the email correspondencia@sectur.gob.mx

MORE EMERGENCY NUMBERS:

General Information: 040 (not free)

SNational Emergency Service: 911

Radio Patrols: 066
Police (Emergency): 060
Civil Protection: +52(55)5683-2222
Anonymous Complaint: 089

Setravi (Transport Mobility): +52(55)5209-9913
Road Emergency: 074

Cruz Roja: 065 o +52(55)5557-5757
Firefighters: 068 o +52(55)5768-3700

Archaeological evidence at the site indicates that Xpuhil could have been settled as early as the Early Classic period, but the majority of architecture and artifacts from the site appear to be from the end of the Classic period. The INAH estimates occupation to be somewhere between 300 and 1200 AD. However, more exact dates are impossible to estimate due to the architectural variations between this site and other Río Bec style settlements.

After centuries of abandonment, Xpuhil was rediscovered by Karl Ruppert and John Denison in 1938. After this discovery, the site was shown to archaeologist and architectural draftswoman Tatiana Proskouriakoff, who was able to make a detailed reconstruction drawing of Structure I in 1943. This could not have been done nearly as accurately today, because the structures have deteriorated a large amount since Proskouriakoff’s work in the 1940s.

Since its rediscovery, the site has been targeted by looters for pieces of its complex facades.

One interesting area of Xpuhil is that of Xpuhil Cuartel, which stands within a Mexican army camp approximately 2 km south-southeast of the three-towered Structure I.

This area was discovered in January 1999 and subsequent reconstruction occurred from June to October of that same year. Its name, Xpuhil Cuartel, means “Xpuhil barracks” due to its juxtaposition with the army camp.

To date, several groups of constructions have been uncovered in the region, which loosely follow late Classic Río Bec architectural canons.

Structure I is the most notable structure in this region, due to its atypical three-tower construction instead of the usual two. This structure includes three towers, roof combs, steep stairways, and non-functional doors. It is hypothesized that it may have been constructed in an effort to mimic the style of pyramid-temples found in Tikal and elsewhere.

Characteristic of the architectural style found at Xpuhil is the construction of “false” temples. That is, they are not really functional as living or performance spaces due to their irregular interior spaces and steep, unclimbable stairways. It is unknown precisely why the ancient Maya built them this way.

You can dial 078 from any phone, where you can find free information about tourist attractions, airports, travel agencies, car rental companies, embassies and consulates, fairs and exhibitions, hotels, hospitals, financial services, migratory and other issues.

Or dial the toll-free (in Mexico) number 01-800-006-8839.

You can also request information to the email correspondencia@sectur.gob.mx

MORE EMERGENCY NUMBERS:

General Information: 040 (not free)

National Emergency Service: 911

Radio Patrols: 066
Police (Emergency): 060
Civil Protection: +52(55)5683-2222
Anonymous Complaint: 089

Setravi (Transport Mobility): +52(55)5209-9913
Road Emergency: 074

Cruz Roja: 065 o +52(55)5557-5757
Firefighters: 068 o +52(55)5768-3700